Pelabuhan Ratu

One of the two beach resorts on West Java’s south coast, Pelabuhan Ratu is quiet village in a remote area. This is a place where you have two basic choiceness: do nothing and relax, or drive out into the countryside and go exploring. Compared to Pangandaran’s beaches, Pelabuhan Ratu’s are neither as ample nor as inviting, and there is little opportunity to stroll or bicycle down quiet beachside lanes; Pelabuhan Ratu is, however, closer Bandung. To Fully appreciate the area, a stay of a couple of days is recommended. Pelabuhan Ratu is about 160 km southwest of Bandung and a 3- to 4- hour drive.

Whereas Pangandaran is developing quickly and just as quickly losing its famed “small fishing village” status, Pelabuhan Ratu shows no signs of rapid development at present. Yet it should be noted that neither does it have quite the charm of Pangandaran. A favorite retreat for Jakartans, it is less favored by Bandung expatriates, mostly because the beaches and swimming are not as good as at Pangandaran.

The south coast of Java, as a rule rough and inhospitable, is fabled to be the realm of Nyai Roro Kidul, the Queen of the South Seas. Though beautiful, she is not an entirely friendly spirit-she is powerful, possessive and many a swimmer and boat crew have fallen prey to her. Strong currents and undertow make swimming extremely dangerous. Local residents may deny the danger, yet every year Nyai Roro Kidul claims her due.

The stretch of road from Padalarang to Cianjur is crowded during rush hours, but the closer you get the coast, the less traffic there is and the more scenic the landscape becomes Near Cikembar is a vast Chinese graveyard, and after Cikembang are rubber plantations.

As a “tourist” you have to pay a small fee to enter the village of Pelabuhan Ratu-local official will flag you down from their desk on the sidewalk. Inexpensive losmen are left and right, after which is the main part of town, a cluster of shops on each side of the road. The fish market is just around the bend, and beyond that are several small hotels and guest houses.

If you travel all the way to Pelabuhan Ratu, you will certainly want to stay at least a couple of days.

Compiled from: All Around Bandung, Exploring The West Java Highlands, Gottfried Roelcke, Gary Crabb.