Pelabuhan Ratu

One of the two beach resorts on West Java’s south coast, Pelabuhan Ratu is quiet village in a remote area. This is a place where you have two basic choiceness: do nothing and relax, or drive out into the countryside and go exploring. Compared to Pangandaran’s beaches, Pelabuhan Ratu’s are neither as ample nor as inviting, and there is little opportunity to stroll or bicycle down quiet beachside lanes; Pelabuhan Ratu is, however, closer Bandung. To Fully appreciate the area, a stay of a couple of days is recommended. Pelabuhan Ratu is about 160 km southwest of Bandung and a 3- to 4- hour drive.

Whereas Pangandaran is developing quickly and just as quickly losing its famed “small fishing village” status, Pelabuhan Ratu shows no signs of rapid development at present. Yet it should be noted that neither does it have quite the charm of Pangandaran. A favorite retreat for Jakartans, it is less favored by Bandung expatriates, mostly because the beaches and swimming are not as good as at Pangandaran.

The south coast of Java, as a rule rough and inhospitable, is fabled to be the realm of Nyai Roro Kidul, the Queen of the South Seas. Though beautiful, she is not an entirely friendly spirit-she is powerful, possessive and many a swimmer and boat crew have fallen prey to her. Strong currents and undertow make swimming extremely dangerous. Local residents may deny the danger, yet every year Nyai Roro Kidul claims her due.

The stretch of road from Padalarang to Cianjur is crowded during rush hours, but the closer you get the coast, the less traffic there is and the more scenic the landscape becomes Near Cikembar is a vast Chinese graveyard, and after Cikembang are rubber plantations.

As a “tourist” you have to pay a small fee to enter the village of Pelabuhan Ratu-local official will flag you down from their desk on the sidewalk. Inexpensive losmen are left and right, after which is the main part of town, a cluster of shops on each side of the road. The fish market is just around the bend, and beyond that are several small hotels and guest houses.

If you travel all the way to Pelabuhan Ratu, you will certainly want to stay at least a couple of days.

Compiled from: All Around Bandung, Exploring The West Java Highlands, Gottfried Roelcke, Gary Crabb.

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Goa Layay

At sundown thousands of bats swarm out of the Goa Lalay Caves just east of the main village area. It’s an eerie sight from the edge of the car park to watch what seems an endless stream of small bats swirling out of the dark caves and up into the evening sky.

Compiled from: All Around Bandung, Exploring The West Java Highlands, Gottfried Roelcke, Gary Crabb.

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Karang Hawu, Beachside Rock Formations

A popular spot for climbing about and exploring is Karang Hawu, about 5 km beyond Samudra Beach Hotel, or about 13 km from the village. Resulting from a lava flow that stopped here at the sea, this cliff is said to be where Nyai Roro Kidul, as a result of unhappy circumstances, jumped into the sea and became the powerful Queen of the South Seas. A few minibuses travel up and down the coast, making it easy to get around if you are not in a hurry.

Compiled from: All Around Bandung, Exploring The West Java Highlands, Gottfried Roelcke, Gary Crabb.

Photo: www.surfingpalabuhanratu.blogspot.com

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Cisolok Hot Springs

A few kilometers beyond (west of) Karang Hawu is the sleepy village of Cisolok. Just past the market area is a road to the right that ends at the Cisolok hot springs. A good footpath also leads to the springs, going along the side of a hill through tropical vegetation. The beginning of the trail is marked with a small crude sign just a few meters beyond the road mentioned above. This is an easy walk taking about thirty minutes. A small obstacle is that you have to ford a springs. However, t is likely that one of the people at the warung nearby will come to guide you across. You can return on foot or take an ojek back to the village for about $0.5.

The springs themselves are very popular with local people. Five-meter high geysers keep the water warm. The more adventurous can follow the creek up into the hills and search for other springs.

Beyond Cisolok, it’s a leisurely drive with superb coastal views, quiet villages along the way, and many opportunities to explore rural areas.

Compiled from: All Around Bandung, Exploring The West Java Highlands, Gottfried Roelcke, Gary Crabb.

Foto: www.travelermadness.tripod.com

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Pangumbahan, A Remote Turtle Beach

At Pangumbahan, giant sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs at night, especially around October and November, a truly wonderful sight and best at full moon. The beach is near Ujung Genteng, a cape about 90 km, or three hour’s journey by car, from Pelabuhan Ratu. It’s difficult to find and you have to ask frequently for the pantai penyu on the last section of road. Near some large shrimp pond is a private station where rangers guard the beach and raise small turtles from the eggs (you can see them in some ponds). Very basic accommodation is available, or you can camp on the beach. Expect to pay the rangers $ 10-15, a fee well worth the experience.

Compiled from: All Around Bandung, Exploring The West Java Highlands, Gottfried Roelcke, Gary Crabb.

Photo: http://www.indonesiar.com/

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